NATIONAL PARKS: BEST GIFT EVER!

Yellowstone National Park was the first national park, initially established in 1872.

Today is the 100^th birthday for the National Park Service.  It was President Woodrow Wilson who signed the mandate creating the agency on 25 August 1916.  Since then, its charge has remained the same: protect designated land for its beauty and wildlife as well as its historical significance for the enjoyment of future generations.  That goal expanded to include assuring public access to these protected areas.

That assurance of public access is what makes the National Parks the best gift ever.  Not only can visitors enter the areas, but they will find visitor centers, knowledgeable rangers and volunteers, established paths and scenic drives as well as parking and bathroom facilities.  Not all locations are 100% accessible, but most are upgrading their facilities and have at least some hiking options accessible for wheelchairs.  The access is not free, but the entrance fee is minimal, typically $30 for a car to have access for a week.* Annual and lifelong passes are options as well.

Grand Canyon

When you unwrap this gift, you will find a wide variety of places to visit and enjoy.  To see the magnitude of what the national parks oversee, I went to National Geographic’s The National Parks: An Illustrated History (May 2015).  Through photos and essays, the book explains how the National Park Service “represents freedom, adventure, diversity, dedication, respect, and restraint.”  Here is the book’s opening overview, by the numbers:

84,000,000 acres of land

75,000 archaeological sites

18,000 miles of trails

247 endangered plants and animals

407 park properties including

78 national monuments

59 national parks

25 battlefields

10 seashores

27,000 historic and prehistoric structures

20,000 employees

246,000 volunteers

292,800,082 recreational visits in 2014

Yosemite Falls

Not everyone is a fan of the national parks, however.  Some visitors even offer some less than stellar Yelp reviews.  According to a few of these reviews, the parks are too crowded, which can happen in the height of the season. The potential of too many other visitors is why I try to visit places in early spring, before summer crowds start showing up.  Other complaints, of course, are just downright silly and say more about the complainer than the national park in question:  too lonely, too expensive, lack of cell service, poor food, no adequate showers, not seeing enough wildlife, but also seeing rattlesnakes OMG.

More specifically, someone felt Yellowstone National Park smelled too much like sulfur, which—of course—is a bi-product of the thermal features that make the place unique.  And one person advises to be careful when visiting that big hole in the ground, the Grand Canyon, because it is a long fall to the bottom: “Do not hover about the Canyon whilst drunk.  You will fall over the edge and you will die.”  I think my favorite comment was posted about South Dakota’s Badlands National Park:  “Waste of time.  Thank god I was drunk in the backseat for the majority of the trip.” 

Yellowstone National Park

I have had the good fortune of visiting many but not enough national parks as I wander on my nature treks, typically in the spring each year.  My most recent visits were to Yellowstone National Park, where I was able to see bison up close and personal, and Saguaro National Park, where I finally saw saguaro cacti in bloom. The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most visited national park in the nation, with nearly 10.1 million recreational visits in 2014.   The Golden Gate National Recreation Area was the most visited property with 15 million visitors in 2014.  Utah offers many parks from which to choose, including Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands, and Zion National Parks.

Saguaro National Park

Winter at the Grand Canyon

Two of my favorite destinations are Yosemite National Park and the Grand Canyon.  They feel the same to me in their majestic and beautiful vistas that encourage quiet contemplation and spiritual connections.  But they are different in mood, I suppose.  The grays and blues of Yosemite are cool and calm, punctuated by the power of waterfalls.  The red and brown hues of the Grand Canyon are warm and soothing, inviting one to sit and enjoy the view of the often muddy Colorado River far below. If you sit quietly at either location, you are apt to see some wildlife as well.

Spring at Yosemite

Squirrel Enjoying the View

Running Off with Lots of Nuts! Grand Canyon

Yosemite Cloud’s Rest, Hazy Day

Upper Yosemite Falls

When you visit, wherever you visit, I am certain you will be delighted.  There are three great books that provide magnificent photos and details about the national parks and monuments.  The books themselves became my souvenirs this year to mark the National Parks’ 100^th Birthday.

Here are the book titles—they do make great gifts:

The National Parks: An American Legacy (2105) with photographs by Ian Shive.

The National Parks: America’s Best Idea An Illustrated History (2009) by Dayton Duncan and Ken Burns.

National Geographic’s The National Parks: An Illustrated History 100 Years of American Splendor (2015) by Kim Heacox (mentioned above).

Of course, it is the visit to any of the parks that is the real gift.  I encourage you to accept the present and get out there visiting a park or monument near you soon!  It will be a gift that keeps on giving!

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE NATIONAL PARK? 

WHAT PARK ARE YOU HOPING TO VISIT NEXT?

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*For price comparisons:  Entry fees to Disneyland are $110 per adult per day; San Diego Zoo, $50 per adult per day, and Los Angeles Zoo, $20 per adult per day.  National Parks are certainly a great value!

MY TRIP: By the Numbers

I am waiting for dinner to be delivered in my hotel room in Albuquerque, NM.  As I headed into town this late afternoon, I hit the first rush-hour traffic of my trip.  It was not terrible, but I was pleased to realize that I had not been dealing with such mundane things as traffic jams for the past several weeks. Given this is one night of traffic out of 19 days of driving, so far, I decided I would give an update about my trip by the numbers:

•  19  Days on the Road
•  6  More Days to Go
•  1 Traffic Jam
•  0 Tickets, Accidents, Flat Tires & Other Problems
•  4  Terrific Visits with Friends & Family, 1 More Visit to Look Forward to
•  4,179  Miles Traveled Thus Far
• 12 States Driven Through (CA, NV, UT, CO, NE, IA, IL, MO, KS, OK, TX, NM) Thus Far
• 11 Hotels Stayed in Thus Far, but not in eleven different states!
• 8 Stops to Enjoy Nature and at least 2 More to Go
• 2 Days Driving in the Rain
• SOME Animal and Flower Sightings
• LOTS of Bird Sightings
• TONS of Photos Taken!

As the list suggests, I have been having a great time. 

I will be home in about a week.  Once I have sorted and edited all the many, many photos I have taken I will post about my various stops along the way.  Until then, I am off tomorrow to find some Nature to appreciate at either Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge or Cibola National Forest.  Maybe both.  Then on to visit with a friend in a few days before I head into AZ to stop at the Grand Canyon.  Eventually, I will end up back at home.

A PEEK INTO SOME OF MY WANDERINGS

 

Zion National Park

Bryce Canyon National Park

Coral Reef National Park

Some Deer Near Coral Reef NP

Canyonlands National Park, Needles Section

Colorado National Monument

View of Pike’s Peak

Garden of the Gods, Colorado Springs

 

Lilacs on a Country Road near Julesberg, CO

Tulips in Pella, IA, Home of the Tulip Festival

Sunset Near Mingo, IA
“Gotta Love Those Clouds!”

Driving into Albuquerque, NM

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Grandeur of Yosemite

When I think of the overwhelming majesty of Yosemite National Park, I cannot help but agree with Carl Sharsmith, a longtime Yosemite ranger.  When a park visitor asked what Carl would do if he only had one day in Yosemite, Carl replied, “I’d go sit by the Merced River and cry!”  And he was right:  There may never be enough time to see all the grandeur of the Yosemite, in all its wonder.  But however much time you have to spend, Yosemite National Park is worth the trip.  It does not matter what season.  Every experience—taking a sunrise walk with a ranger, strolling through the rain on a chilly fall afternoon, picnicking along the Merced in the summer, being surprised by the mist coming off Bridalveil Falls, noticing deer or coyote across a field, or marveling at wildflowers as they come to life after a spring shower—adds to the tapestry that is Yosemite.  Each experience is its own unique treasure.

Although I grew up in California, my first visit to Yosemite was as an adult in October 1989.  I was attending a conference, so was able to enjoy the park through small excursions around the meetings and dinners that were part of the event. Since then, I have returned to Yosemite many times, in all seasons.  But I will always remember the gray skies and subdued autumn colors of that first visit.

A BIT OF HISTORY

By the time of my first trip, the Tunnel Tree in the Mariposa Grove had already collapsed and Mirror Lake was drying up rather quickly, but most of the wonders of the 1200 square mile national park were still available for visitors thanks in good part to the preservation efforts of John Muir, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt. In 1833, white explorers first discovered the gorgeous Yosemite Valley that was home to Indians for years and years, but full exploration did not begin until 1851. By 1855, the first tourist groups descended on the Valley, and speculators started considering ways to exploit the area’s natural resources.

John Muir, always a friend to Yosemite, made extensive pleas to preserve the area in its natural state. In 1864, Lincoln signed the act that ceded Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove to California as a public park. In 1890, the land around Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove were made a national park.  Finally, in 1906, California gave its portion of Yosemite to the United States, and Yosemite National Park was formed. In 1913, a controversial decision was made to dam the Tuolumne River to create the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir to provide drinking water for San Francisco; the project was completed in 1923.  Although less spectacular than Yosemite Valley, the Hetch Hetchy Valley had been impressive, and its flooding to create the reservoir is still mourned and contested by many.

SOME FAVORITE YOSEMITE VIEWS

Over the years, I have visited Yosemite National Park many times. Although a visit any time of the year is wondrous, I tend to avoid the summer—it is just too crowded! My favorite destination is Yosemite Valley, but I have explored other areas as well, including trips to Tioga Pass, Tuolumne Meadows, and Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. On my trips I usually do not wander too far off the beaten path because of some health and mobility limitations. That means I will never see everything the park has to offer, but I can experience quite a bit.  For example, I will never hike to Vernal and Nevada Falls or up the back way to Glacier Point, which reaches a staggering height of 7,214 feet.  But I can drive to the Glacier Point Lookout, once the road opens each spring.  From that view, it is easy to see why John Muir offered the following conclusion:  “The most striking and sublime features on the grandest scale is the Yosemite.”

Each visit, as I drive out of the 8-mile tunnel that leads into the Valley, I am overwhelmed by the glory of the Tunnel View.  Off in the distance is the aptly named Cloud’s Rest, which—at 9,926 feet—truly seems to reach into the sky and grab hold of the passing clouds. When the sun breaks through, it is magnificent.

The more I visit Yosemite, the more I realize that it is a mercurial place, changing its mood and personality with each season. The crowds and weather also contribute to the subtle distinctions that make each visit special. Over the years, it is the contrast apparent from one visit to the next that stands out for me, even in something as simple as a fallen tree in the meadow.  The contrasts apparent in some of the major features of the Valley are even more impressive. 

El Capitan is a granite monolith that rises 3600 feet above the Merced River, but at times it is obscured by fog. 

Yosemite Falls is probably one of the most well known features of the Valley. The Falls plummet a total of 2,245 feet in stages and are designated as the Upper and Lower Falls. At the falls, the water’s power and majesty can be felt. 

If you have never visited the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias, make the time to stop at least once.  You will discover over 500 mature giant sequoias.  Many of these trees are over 3,000 years old.  The largest one is 290 feet tall and 40 feet in diameter. There is a tram ride and an easy trail that allow visitors to mingle with the trees. 

One of the most recognizable views of Yosemite is Half Dome, which stretches up 8,842 feet.  Whenever I see it, I remember the Indian legend a ranger shared on a nature walk one year. It is a great story that explains many of the topographical features of the Valley. The story also stresses the human connection to the area and reminds us all that we should be guardians of the valleys and mountains around us. 

Here is the Legend of Tissiak as I recall it:  The first couple, Tissiak and Nangus, was traveling into the Valley from the East.  As usual, Tissiak was playful and impulsive and ran off from Nangus.  In his frustration, Nangus started beating Tissiak to make her stay by his side. The Great Spirit intervened and placed Tissiak into the mountains where she would always be safe.  Can you see her face on the side of Half Dome?  The papoose she was carrying became the Royal Arches opposite her, and her tears filled Mirror Lake.  Her bread basket toppled and became the dome above the Arches. Her scattered, broken loaves of bread took root as pine trees throughout the Valley. The Great Spirit broke Nangus’ staff and sent him off alone, but not before giving him a love and understanding of the landscape around him. The point of his staff became the Lost Arrow Spire near Yosemite Falls. Wherever the broken staff pieces fell, giant redwoods sprang up.  

It is an easy hike to Bridalveil Falls, another of the famous locations within Yosemite Valley. Depending on the season and the year’s rainfall, you could experience a trickle of water or downpour as the falls plunge 620 feet.  The Yosemite Indians (Ahwahneechee) called this place Pohono, the spirit of the puffing wind. If a breeze picks up, you are likely to get drenched as the spirit races by. 

Chief Seattle may have never visited Yosemite Valley, but his general words about rivers seem to be especially apt for the Merced River that runs through the heart of the Valley:  “The rivers are our brothers. They quench our thirst. They carry our canoes and feed our children. . . . and you must henceforth give the rivers the kindness you would give any other brother.”  A visit to Yosemite would not be complete without some sort of interaction with the Merced, whether that be picnicking along its shores or wading into the shallows to cool off in the summer.

 

Happy Isles is the name given in 1885 to a pair of small islands formed where the Merced River enters Yosemite Valley.  You can take a tram to the general area and then relax at Happy Isles for an hour or the whole afternoon. Once there, you will understand why W. E. Dennison, guardian of the Yosemite State Grant, named the place as he did. He states, “No one can visit them without for the while forgetting the grinding strife of his world and feeling happy.”  On one of my visits, I spent a good part of the afternoon watching an American Dipper playing in the water.  This bird is a wonder, the only North American aquatic song bird that catches water bugs by walking underwater on the river bottom.

One of my favorite visits to Yosemite was in the winter with my dad.  We only had time to stay for an afternoon, but Dad wanted to take some pictures.  It was a great day, even though it was very cold. We did not do much hiking, but we did enjoy the quiet and the solitude and shared some time with a couple coyotes that were out hunting in a snow-covered field.

Another of my favorite visits came one May, when I made a last minute decision to visit Yosemite before summer school started.  It seemed destined to be a remarkable trip. I called the Ahwanhee Hotel on a lark only to discover they did have a room available because of a last-minute cancellation.  This hotel is usually booked months and months and months in advance.  Upon my arrival, I was greeted by some friendly deer and found many water lilies blooming in the hotel’s outdoor fountain. But the next morning, the weather was overcast and dreary, unexpected for a spring day. The air was heavy with the expectation of rain. But the rains came quickly, and left just as fast.  With the returning sunshine, I was surprised by the splashes of color evident everywhere I looked. Dogwood was in bloom along many pathways, and I also spied Wild Iris, Western Wallflowers, and Snow Plants.  It was a glorious spring adventure! 

THE SPIRIT OF JOHN MUIR

Isn’t Yosemite National Park grand?  I really wanted to visit Yosemite this month. With all the rains California received this year, I figured the wildflowers would be gorgeous.  Unfortunately, I have too many commitments right now that keep me from making such a trip. That’s part of the reason I am writing this blog about Yosemite—it lets me take a virtual trip!  If you have visited before at least once, you know what I mean about its wonders.  If you’ve never visited, add a “Trip to Yosemite” high on your Bucket List. 

When you go, keep yourself open to communing with the spirit of John Muir.  He loved Yosemite and protected it for most of his life. One year, a ranger pointed out a pale splotch on the rock face near Yosemite Falls. He explained that a recent rock slide in that area had left that mark, where the rocks had given way.  He claimed, if you looked closely, you would see the silhouette of John Muir’s face, watching the falls he so loved.  I was doubtful, but when I looked, I did think I could see his face, there, in the rock.  Can you see him?  

 

“As long as I live, I’ll hear water-falls and birds and winds sing.  I’ll interpret the rocks. Learn the language of the flood, storm, and the avalanche. I’ll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens, and get as near the heart of the world as I can.”  John Muir

“In God’s wilderness lies the hope of the world—the great fresh unblighted, unredeemed wilderness.” John Muir